Tigersprung : Fashion in Modernity

by
Format: Hardcover
Pub. Date: 2000-11-01
Publisher(s): Mit Pr
List Price: $57.75

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Summary

Far from being a frivolous subject, fashion is the supreme expression of the contemporary spirit. Sartorial elements embody the pace and rhythm of modern society and culture as few other ideas or commodities do. Indeed, the hallmarks of la modernitefound their most immediate reflection in la mode. But no one until now has attempted a rigorous analysis of fashion, on a par with attempts to construct a philosophy of art, music, or literature. In this book Ulrich Lehmann sets out to do just that. He explores the interplay between philosophical ideas and fashion, reading texts and textiles, discourse and dresses, to investigate modernity from a variety of perspectives: artistic, philosophical, sociological, and historical. The stage for this interplay between intellectual concept and sartorial expression is Parisian society from the mid-nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century. Lehmann focuses on a core of pivotal individuals, beginning with Charles Baudelaire in the 1850s, continuing with Stephane Mallarme and Georg Simmel, and arriving at Walter Benjamin, Louis Aragon, and Andre Breton almost a century later. The book's title comes from Benjamin's use of the German word Tigersprung(tiger's leap) to describe fashion's leap into the past to create an ever-changing present. Lehmann focuses in particular on Benjamin's Arcades Project as an unfinished work on the philosophy of fashion. He also looks at the role of fashion in the work of the Dadaists and surrealists, who used clothes and accessories as simulacra for the human body and mind. Fashion, according to Lehmann, does not just reflect social change but is a social force in its own right. In creating the perfect expression of the contemporary spirit-by drawing on the past-fashion excels at anticipating things to come.

Table of Contents

Introduction xii
Baudelaire, Gautier, and the Origins of Fashion in Modernity
3(50)
Fashion Written I
4(1)
Mode et modernite
5(23)
Charles Baudelaire, the Originator
5(6)
Theophile Gautier, the Contemporary
11(7)
The Feminine Article
18(6)
The Masculine Mode
24(4)
Cravate rouge and blouse bleue
28(6)
What Price Revolution?
34(2)
The First Tiger's Leap
36(2)
Quote within a Quote
38(9)
A Passing Fashion
47(6)
Mallarme and the Elegance of Fashion in Modernity
53(72)
Mode et modernite: Stephane Malarme, the Modernist
54(5)
The Goddess
59(5)
The La(te)st Fashion
64(10)
Fashion Written II-IV
74(28)
The Epic and the Epicene
74(14)
Mode et fiction---modification
88(10)
Vocabulaire vestimentaire
98(4)
Mallarme and His Subscribers: Corresponding Ideals
102(11)
La Derniere Mode in Retrospect: ``Apres nous le delice?!''
113(12)
Simmel and the Rationale of Fashion in Modernity
125(74)
Mode und Moderne: Georg Simmel, the Philosopher
127(8)
Simmel's Methodology
135(8)
Mode to Measure
135(2)
Fashion, the Fragment, and the Whole
137(6)
Imitation and Differentiation
143(10)
La querelle des anciens et des modernes
143(3)
Imitor ergo sum
146(2)
Difference and Reference
148(5)
The Revolution in Fashion
153(1)
Class and Classification
154(4)
Critical Theory versus Simmelian Analogy
158(4)
The Second Tiger's Leap
162(7)
Elements of Fashion
169(14)
The Stranger
169(8)
Transitoriness
177(6)
Fin(esse) de siecle
183(5)
Fashion's Phantom
188(11)
Benjamin and the Revolution of Fashion in Modernity
199(82)
The Object
201(2)
The Idea of Fashion
203(4)
Mode and Metaphor
207(7)
Skirting the Memory
207(4)
Back in the Fold
211(3)
Construction; Work
214(9)
A Fetish in Fashion
223(2)
The Confluence of mode et modernite
225(8)
Eternal Recurrence and Redemption
233(8)
Tigersprung
241(10)
The Third Tiger's Leap
241(6)
The Standstill of the Tiger (on the Catwalk)
247(4)
Clothed History
251(8)
Fashioning the Arcades
259(5)
Le revers: The Other Side of Reality
264(8)
Death a la mode
272(2)
Consumption, Redemption, or Revolution?
274(7)
The Imagination of Fashion in Modernity
281(119)
Fashion Written V
287(3)
Benjamin on Grandville and Surrealism: The Clothes of Five years Ago
290(9)
Mythe et mode
299(9)
Fashion Written VI: A Structured (Pur)Suit
308(5)
Dada's Dandyism and Surrealist Imagination
313(2)
Fashion Written VII: Tailoring Irony
315(8)
Aragon and Breton: Le cabinet des cravates
323(7)
Vache and Breton
330(24)
Initiation and Imitation
330(22)
L'eternel carre de dentelle
352(2)
Modern Mythology
354(46)
Monocularity
355(17)
On Locomotives and Top Hats
372(28)
Conclusion 400(4)
Notes 404(100)
Selected Bibliography 504(14)
Index 518

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