The Rise of Fashion,9780816643936

The Rise of Fashion

by
ISBN13: 9780816643936
ISBN10: 0816643938
Format: Paperback
Pub. Date: 2004-09-01
Publisher(s): Univ of Minnesota Pr
List Price: $31.50

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Summary

Writing more than a century before Vogue, no less a figure than G. W. F. Hegel reviewed the fashion of his day and found it wanting because, in becoming outmoded so quickly, it drew attention away from the timeles beauty of the human form. For more than 250 years, social thinkers have considered fashion - its transitive nature, the conformity it inspires, the vast range of its influence - as a defining feature of modern life.

Author Biography

Daniel Leonhard Purdy is associate professor of German at Pennsylvania State University

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments xiii
Introduction 1(20)
PART I. ARISTOCRATIC EXCESS AND THE DISPLAY OF RANK
"Pride" from The Fable of the Bees (1724)
BERNARD MANDEVILLE
21(7)
Letter to His Son (1750)
LORD CHESTERFIELD
28(4)
"The Man of the World" (1736)
VOLTAIRE
32(5)
"Discourse on the Arts and Sciences" (1150)
JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU
37(12)
"Etiquette and Ceremony: Conduct and Sentiment of Human Beings as Functions of the Power Structure of Their Society" from The Court Society(1969)
NORBERT ELIAS
49(16)
PART II. PUBLIC DISCOURSE AND THE SEMIOTICS OF DRESS
"On Fashion" (1792)
CHRISTIAN GARVE
65(7)
"An Answer to the Question: Would It Be Harmful or Beneficial to Establish a National Uniform?" (1791)
SAMUEL SIMON WITTE
72(7)
"Adornment" from Sociology(1908)
GEORG SIMMEL
79(8)
PART III. DRESS REFORM AND GENDER
MASCULINE SIMPLICITY
"The Benefits of a National Uniform, Declaimed by a Citizen" from Patriotic Fantasies (1715)
JUSTUS MÖSER
87(6)
"Men's Fashion" and "Men's Hats" (1898)
ADOLF LOOS
93(9)
"The Great Masculine Renunciation and Its Causes" from The Psychology of Clothes (1930)
J.C. FLÜGEL
102(7)
FEMINIST DRESS REFORM
"The New Costume for the Ladies" and "The New Dress" from The Lily (1851)
109(8)
"Some Realizations in Dress Reform" from Feminism in Germany and Scandinavia (1915)
KATHARINE ANTHONY
117(9)
"Social Life" from The Second Sex (1953)
SIMONE DE BEAUVOIR
126(13)
PART IV. IDEALIST AESTHETICS
"On Art and Craftwork" (1797), "On Objects Portrayed in Visual Arts" (1797), and "On Strict Aesthetic Judgments" (1798/1799)
JOHANN WOLFGANG GOETHE
139(6)
"On Drapery" from Aesthetics (1820)
GEORG W.F. HEGEL
145(8)
"Fashion and Cynicism" (1879)
FRIEDRICH VISCHER
153(12)
PART V. DANDYISM
"The Dandiacal Body" from Sartor Resartus (1831)
THOMAS CARLYLE
165(9)
"The Anatomy of Dandyism with Some Observations on Beau Brummell" (1845)
BARBEY D'AUREVILLY
174(18)
"The Dandy" from The Painter of Modern Life (1863)
CHARLES BAUDELAIRE
192(4)
"Fashion and the Modern" (1846)
KARL GUTZKOW
196(10)
"The Dialogue of Fashion and Death" from The Moral Essays (1824)
GIACOMO LEOPARDI
206(7)
PART VI. GLORIFYING THE ARTIFICIAL
"Beauty, Fashion, and Happiness," "Modernity," and "In Praise of Cosmetics" from The Painter of Modern Life (1863)
CHARLES BAUDELAIRE
213(9)
"Jewels" and "Wedding Presents" from La Derniere Mode (1814)
STÉPHANE MALLARMÉ
222(4)
"The Pervasion of Rouge" (1896)
MAX BEERBOHM
226(6)
"The Suitability of Dress" (1882)
OSCAR WILDE
232(7)
"The Eroticism of Clothes" from Die Fackel (1906)
KARL KRAUS
239(6)
"Analysis of the Cases (Complex of Symptoms)" from Transvestites: An Investigation into Erotic Masquerade (1910)
MAGNUS HIRSCHFELD
245(16)
PART VII. CLASS CONFLICT AND STATUS EMULATION
"Conspicuous Consumption" and "Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture" from The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899)
THORSTEIN VEBLEN
261(28)
"Fashion" (1901)
GEORG SIMMEL
289(21)
"Economy and Fashion: A Theoretical Contribution on the Formation of Modern Consumer Demand" (1902)
WERNER SOMBART
310(7)
"Bourgeois Dress" (1912)
EDUARD FUCHS
317(11)
"Fashion" from The Principles of Sociology (1902)
HERBERT SPENCER
328(5)
"Customs" (1909)
FERDINAND TÖNNIES
333(8)
Notes 341(8)
Permissions 349(2)
Index 351

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