The first cookbook to assess Peruvian cooking, The Exotic Kitchens of Peru provides readers with not only sumptuous and unique recipes, but also a wonderfully detailed history of Peru. Whatever your tastes are, you are sure to discover many new favorite dishes in The Exotic Kitchens of Peru. Illustrated throughout with line drawings, and with a complete glossary of Peruvian culinary terms, this unique cookbook is a must-have for everyone from cookbook collectors to those seeking to learn more about the exotic Peruvian culture.

When Copeland Marks sets out to capture the exotic cuisines he writes about in his highly praised series of books, his method is to totally immerse himself in the culture of the country whose kitchens he is exploring. He spends months living in the cities and villages and cooking with chefs, professional cooks, and housewives. The results are always spectacular as he searches for the heart of the cuisine. A regular contributor to several food magazines, Copeland Marks is also the author of The Burmese Kitchen, The Varied Kitchens of India, The Exotic Kitchens of Indonesia, and False Tongues and Sunday Bread (The Guatemalan Kitchen). He currently resides in Brooklyn Heights, New York.

Chapter One

TAMALES, APPERIZERS, AND OTHER SNACKS

This chapter could also be called Endangered Species, since the recipes that follow are labor-intensive, and each year fewer ethnic cooks wish to make tamales, for example, as their mothers did. The excuse is always too much work. Yet, to allow any of the recipes in this group to be lost to the electronic shortcuts of the Twentieth Century would be an insult to the dedicated cook.

    This should not serve to intimidate any who wish to make the more complicated dishes, like the excellent Saltena de Pollo (Chicken and Vegetable Pies), but to encourage them. Appetizers and snacks fill an important and useful category in Peruvian cooking. Moreover, most of them can be prepared, then cooled and frozen, which is an enormous advantage and eliminates frequent cooking and assembly.

    I urge the reader who is interested in the ethnic cooking of Peru to make the effort and, in essence, save the old-time preparations from extinction. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Tamales Especiales (Trujillo)

CLASSIC PERUVIAN TAMALES

A number of Latin American countries prepare noted tamales of different sizes, shapes, and ingredients: Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Ecuador, and, of course, Peru. They all have one thing in common --masa harina, which is cornmeal ground purposely for use in tamales. It is the additional ingredients in any tamales that give them their character.

    THE MAZA

2 pounds masa harina (about 8 cups)

2 tablespoons chopped, seeded fresh aji amarillo )

(yellow Peruvian chili, see Glossary))

1 tablespoon salt, or more to taste)

2 teaspoons achiote granules (see Glossary),)

dissolved in 4 teaspoons hot corn oil 1/2 cup corn oil)

11 to 12 cups hot water, depending upon)

the firmness of the mix

In a large bowl mix the masa harina, aji , salt, achiote oil, corn oil, and hot water, adding it a little at a time, stirring as you go, until combined well; set aside.

    THE STUFFING

1/4 cup corn oil)

5 cloves garlic, ground to a paste with)

3 tablespoons water)

1 pound skinless chicken breast, cut into thumb-sized pieces)

10 scallions, trimmed and sliced)

3 teaspoons dried yellow aji chili powder (see Glossary))

1 teaspoon pepper)

1 teaspoon cumin

Heat the oil in a skillet. Stir in the garlic paste, then add the chicken and stir-fry over low heat for 2 minutes. Add the scallions, aji powder, pepper, and cumin, and stir-fry for 5 minutes; set aside to cool.

    PREPARE THE TAMALES

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and each cut lengthwise into 8 slices)

25 black olives, pitted (one for each tamale))

60 dried corn leaves Nylon thread or raffia ( hunco )

1. On the work surface spread out 2 corn leaves, placing one halfway over the other. Place 1/2 cup of the cornmeal mash in the center of the 2 overlapping leaves. Press the mash down into a rectangle 1 inch thick and 4 to 5 inches long. Make a depression in the mash and add 2 tablespoons chicken stuffing. Place 1 olive on one end and 1 slice of egg on the other. Fold one leaf over toward the center and the other leaf over that.

2. Using nylon thread or raffia, tie one end of the tamale, about 2 inches from the end. Turn the tamale and tie the other end. Now wrap the tamale lengthwise with the thread.

3. Make the tamales, filling and tying them with the remaining leaves and stuffing, in the same way.

4. Place the tied tamales in a large pan and add hot water to come up to just the top of the tamales. Cover the pan, bring the water to a boil over moderate/low heat, and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Serve warm. Makes about 25 tamales

Note: Cooked tamales can be frozen. Cool well, then store in plastic bags, and freeze. When ready to use, let them thaw for 1 or 2 hours. Place in 1 to 2 inches of boiling water and cook for 10 minutes.

    Aluminum foil, light or medium weight, can be used instead of the traditional dried corn leaves. For each tamale, cut a sheet of foil 12 inches square. Place 1/2 cup of the cornmeal mash in the center of the foil sheet. Follow the same instructions above for filling. Fold one long side of the foil toward the center; fold the other tong side over it. Fold each short end into a triangle and fold into the middle. It should be tightly wrapped. The package may also be tied up or not, as you wish. In any event, make a tight package, wrapping the foil as you would giftwrap a box.

***

Humitas (Chiclayo)

STEAMED WHOLE CORN KERNEL TAMALES

    Humitas are really the classic tamales, just in a different guise. The ingredients here are different, but the technique of stuffing the dried corn leaves (available in any Mexican food market), tying them into tight bundles, and boiling them in water (for only 20 minutes) is the same.

    THE CORN

4 cups (2 pounds) fresh or thawed frozen corn niblets (kernels))

1 tablespoon corn oil)

1 teaspoon achiote granules (see Glossary), dissolved in 2 teaspoons hot corn oil)

1 teaspoon salt)

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1. In a food processor process the corn niblets into a mush with some texture. (It should not be smooth.) Transfer to a bowl and stir in the oil, achiote , salt, and pepper; set aside for 1/2 hour to thicken.

    THE HUMITAS

    About 25 dried corn leaves

1 fresh aji amarillo (yellow Peruvian chili, see Glossary) seeded, and cut into 10 julienne slices)

10 black olives, pitted and halved)

1 small onion, sliced thin (1/3 cup))

1/4 teaspoon achiote granules, dissolved in 1 teaspoon hot corn oil)

1/4 teaspoon salt)

1 pound skinless chicken breast, cut into 10 thumb-sized pieces)

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and each cut lengthwise into 10 slices

1. Arrange 2 corn leaves as slices as instructed Tamales Especiales (see preceding recipe). Take 2 generous tablespoons of the corn niblet mush and place it in the center of the corn leaves.

2. In a small skillet stir-fry the aji , black olives, onion, achiote oil, and 1/4 teaspoon salt over low heat for 2 minutes. Remove and cool.

3. Make a depression in the corn mush and add 1 piece of chicken and 1 slice of egg. From the stir-fried mixture add 1 slice of aji , 2 halves of black olives, and a few slices of onion. Cover with 2 tablespoons more of the corn mush, pressing it down into a rectangle. Fold the corn leaves over, and tie the tamale as indicated on page 15. Form tamales with the remaining ingredients and corn leaves and tie them in the same way. Boil in hot water following the directions on page 15 for 20 minutes. Drain.

Upon serving, unfold the humitas and serve warm. Makes 10

***

Juane de Yuca (Iquitos)

YUCA PACKAGES

Juane is a traditional food, a differently shaped tamale of the Amazonian city of Iquitos and is sold in public markets all tied up ready to go in its characteristic round pouch shape. Yuca root is grated and seasoned, topped with a piece of fish, and boiled in water for an hour. In Iquitos, these are not wrapped in aluminum foil, which is what I have used here. There they are prepared with bijau, a flexible jungle leaf that is filled, then firmly tied up with a kind of rattan thread--some things we would find difficult to duplicate here.

4 pounds yuca (see Glossary), peeled and rinsed in cold water)

4 tablespoons corn oil)

1 cup chopped sweet red pepper)

1 teaspoon cumin)

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste)

3 cloves garlic, chopped fine)

6 sprigs fresh cilantro processed to a paste with 2 tablespoons water)

1 pound fish fillet, such as flounder or similar fish, cut into 8 to 10 pieces, one for each package)

8 to 10 squares (12 inches) aluminum foil

1. Grate the yuca on the fine side of a hand grater or in a food processor. Transfer to a bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons of the oil until combined.

2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet. Add the red pepper, cumin, salt, and garlic and stir-fry over low heat for 3 minutes. Add to the yuca with the cilantro paste and mix well.

3. Put 1/2 cup of the yuca mixture in the center of 1 sheet of the foil squares. Top with 1 piece of fish and cover it with another 1/2 cup of the yuca mixture.

4. Fold the 4 corners of the foil toward the center. Twist the corners firmly to seal the package into a rounded pouch shape. Prepare with the remaining filling and foil in the same way. Put the packages, standing upright, side by side, in a saucepan. Add enough water to the pan to come at least halfway up the sides of the packages. Bring the water to a boil, cover, and cook over low heat for 1 hour.

Unwrap and serve warm. Makes 8 to 10

Juane de Arroz (Iquitos)

RICE PACKAGES

Like Juane de Yuca (preceding recipe), the rice package is jungle food, a meal to be carried when traveling or eaten at home in the Amazonian region. These packages are available for sale in public markets, but all of the home cooks I met in the city of Iquitos prepared them for their families.

2 tablespoons corn oil)

2 cloves garlic, chopped)

1/2 teaspoon turmeric)

3 cups rice, well rinsed, soaked in water to cover)

1/2 hour, cooked until al dente , and cooled)

3 eggs, beaten)

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste)

12 squares (12 inches) aluminum foil)

8 pieces boneless hen, light or dark meat,)

3 inches long by 1 inch wide)

8 black olives, pitted)

2 h\ard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

1. Heat the oil in a skillet and stir-fry the garlic and turmeric over low heat for 1 minute.

2. Put the rice in a large bowl and add the garlic mixture. Stir in the beaten eggs and salt.

3. Put 3/4 cup of the cooked rice mixture in the middle of 1 foil square. Push into the rice piece of hen, 1 olive, and 1 egg quarter. Cover with 1/2 cup of the rice mixture.

4. Fold the 4 corners of the foil toward the center. Twist the corners firmly to seal the package to prevent water from entering. Prepare packages with the remaining ingredients and foil in the same way.

5. Put the 8 bundles standing upright, side by side, in a saucepan. Add enough water to the pan to come at least halfway up the sides of the packages. Bring to a boil and cook over low heat for 1/2 hour.

Unwrap and serve warm. Makes 8 packages

***

Ocopa Arequipena (Arequipa)

OCOPA FROM AREQUIPA

I cannot translate ocopa, except to say that it is a popular appetizer from the beautiful city of Arequipa and is nationally known and appreciated in Peru. It incorporates evaporated milk, fresh cheese, huacatay, ground peanuts, all of which is then thickened with crushed cookies. These idiosyncratic ingredients help describe the popularity of ocopa.

1 tablespoon corn oil)

1 sweet green pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces (3/4 cup))

1 medium onion, quartered (1/2 cup))

1 tablespoon huacatay (see Glossary))

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste)

2 tablespoons dry roasted peanuts, ground fine)

1 cup evaporated milk)

1/2 cup coarsely mashed queso fresco (see Glossary) or Feta cheese)

3 sweet vanilla cookies, crushed (see Note) lettuce leaves, for serving)

4 potatoes (1 1/4 pounds), cooked in their skins, peeled and sliced lengthwise tomato slices, for serving)

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered)

6 black olives, pitted

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the green pepper, onion, huacatay , salt, and peanuts and stir-fry over low heat for 2 minutes.

2. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process to a smooth consistency. Add the milk, cheese, and cookies and process again until smooth.

To serve, arrange the lettuce leaves over a serving platter (or individual plates). Place the potatoes in the center. Arrange the tomato slices around the edge of the platter. Pour the cheese sauce over the potatoes, then garnish with the olives and eggs.

Serve at room temperature or cold as an appetizer. Serves 6

Note: Some Peruvian recipes contain either plain sweet cookies or tea biscuits or crushed soda crackers (saltines) for the purpose of thickening a sauce. Some cooks prefer to use the small animal crackers, crushed.

Copyright © 1999 Copeland Marks. All rights reserved.